Petit Verdot is the problem child of what are collectively known as the “Bordeaux grape varieties.” While Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc are all known as doing perfectly fine when bottled on their own, Petit Verdot has a reputation for being tough, tannic, dark-toned and irascible, not to mention being difficult to get ripe should the harvest weather turn cool. And those seem to be exactly the reasons why Desparada winemaker/owner Vailia From loves Petit Verdot and relies on it for her top wines.

Vailia approaches the Paso region less as a stylistic template and more as a palette of vineyards and grape varieties. She rests her focus on structure and aromatic lift rather than sheer stereotypical Paso Robles weight. And even when the wines are powerful, the emphasis tends to be on their architectural framework, rather than plushness or sweetness of fruit. Fermentations may transpire in amphora, concrete, stainless steel, or oak depending on where Vailia sees the wine’s potential, and blending often plays a prominent role in the finished wine. Also playing to their favor, the Desparada wines reflect a broader set of influences than just being from Paso Robles. Her background in importing and tasting widely from European regions shaped her blending palate that looks toward Old World structure and balance. As a result, Desparada’s wines often combine Paso Robles fruit intensity with a more restrained, structural sensibility that echoes parts of the Rhône, Bordeaux, or southern France. However, “restrained” is not exactly a term one might leap toward when describing this wine. Be forewarned it’s 16% alcohol, and you’d be wise to stay away from smoking cigars while enjoying this wine, and from operating heavy machinery afterwards. Vailia’s tasting notes from a previous vintage of Axis:  

'Dark cherry car crash, wood nymphs gone wild, underground jazz beats from the gopher people, titty titty dot dot, those aren’t my pencil shavings.' 

Check, I got it. I’m goin’ in! Roger, over and out…