The 2024 Li Veli “Orion” Primitivo tastes like southern Italy feels at dusk. Blackberries still warm from the sun, cracked pepper, a little smoke in the distance, and somebody grilling lamb under olive trees that might have been planted by your great-grandmother's grandfather. The winery is now owned by the family that owns Avignonesi, a swanky (but authentic) winery in Montepulciano (the one in Tuscany, not Abruzzo). This wine is rich without swagger. Soft (and inexpensive) enough to drink on a Tuesday, but deep and soulful enough to remember on a Thursday. Heck, pop it on Saturday night when you want to impress your boss.