If Cortese was the family name of one of the characters in “The Godfather,” he’d probably be “Nunzio the Squid,” or “Umberto the Clam,” or something fishy-sounding. The grape variety called Cortese is usually found in southern Piedmont, where it thrives on limestone-rich soils near the border with Liguria. These soils (limestone and marl) are similar to what you find on the westside of Paso Robles, and it’s all indicative of the area’s soil once having been the ocean floor. It’s a minerality thing, and the wines tend to be pale in color, high-toned, and elegantly structured. Citrus peel, green apple, almond, and a kind of saline minerality are what one expects, almost like spending an evening at the coast.

Gavi is the best-known version of wine made of Cortese. Its greatness lies in its ability to enhance the food it’s being served with. It’s less a “statement wine” and more a daily companion. Poured alongside a grilled fish or chicken breast, it becomes magical, almost disappearing while making the meal more memorable. We think of it as Italy’s version of Germany’s Sylvaner or dry Semillon from France: enjoyable on its own, it springs to life when enjoyed with food.

This 2023 Tenuta Carretta Gavi is a textbook expression of Cortese. Crisp, understated, and quietly structured. Not a wine chasing attention, but one that does exactly what Gavi is supposed to do when it’s done right. Clean, refreshing, and just a little more interesting than it first lets on.