If you’d bought this bottle on release, you probably would have hated the wine, cursed the salesperson who recommended it for dinner that night, and most likely would never, ever again buy a bottle of Bandol. But here we are,10 years on, and it’s showing signs of wonderfulness, emerging from an awkward decade and indicating that yes, Bandol is among the coolest appellations on the planet.

The key to enjoying this right now is to think ahead and open it at least two or three hours before you plan to drink it. Decanting might speed things up a little, but just removing the cork is fine. With air, the tannins meld into the background, the cherries and plums come out, and the earthiness leans more toward an “invigorating forest floor” sensation rather than “Tally-ho, that was just a vigorous foxhunt until we mistakenly cornered that skunk, best we now hose down the dogs and horses” feeling. It’s not a shy wine, but shos detail and elegance with aeration. Ponder if you will the concept of a Paso Robles-style red being crafted in cool-climate Avila Beach and you get the general idea of modern-day Bandol. It’ll soften up with even more air time, becoming chocolatey and plush, lots more civilized and a real crowd pleaser with a ribeye or big lamb chops.

One might consider that Bandol is the jewel in the crown of Provence. Many of its vineyards overlook the Mediterranean, you can go to the beach in the morning and visit wineries in the afternoon, and the food is fantastic, the perfect pairing with the wine.