Years ago, having stopped at a hole-in-the-wall trattoria for lunch near Italy’s border with France and Switzerland, Kermit ordered a pitcher of Arneis, hailing from the neighboring region of Piemonte. Coming across a stellar wine in such a setting is rarer than you might think, but that time, the pitcher delivered an exemplary, honest, and pure expression of this Piemontese white grape. It was the perfect complement to charcuterie and salad at the beginning of a relaxed lunch. Fifteen years later, this luscious cuvée supplies that same original, easygoing charm, proving Piemonte isn’t just about red wine.